The farming industry, for example, utilise Multi-purpose Utility Vehicles with chemical sprayer attachments for crop sprays. Chemical sprayers enable the use of individual chemical mixes and dilution rates required for each specific job
Golf Clubs utilise the mower attachments for fine finish golf courses. The mower attachment is excellent for increasing productivity in grass cutting operations covering large areas in a short space of time.
Local councils in the UK, require innovative methods which aid the fight against snow and ice on roads and motorways. UK Councils also utilise a number of other implement attachment for the utility vehicle including the patch planner for roadworks, the verge mower for roadside vegetation and a sweeper attachment to sweep areas of waste with limited access.
Airports throughout the UK, deploy implement vehicles with high capacity de-icing sprayers, Snow Ploughs and Gritters to clear the runway in poor weather conditions. For all types of snow clearance, this vehicle is the ideal solution for any airports winter resilience programme. When weather gets warmer, grass cutting attachments allow for the utility vehicles versatility.
Groundcare and forestry companies operate the multipurpose implement vehicles with stump grinder and wood chipper attachments. Mower attachments cover large areas of space combined with different cutting lengths. There is also a useful bucket attachment available to lift, grade and tip a variety of debris including wood chippings and grass.
The pallet forks and mast attachment is an effective tool for general yard duties and for loading / unloading in distribution centres. Another useful attachment for distribution is a towing implement giving the option of carrying tools and materials from one part of the operation to the next.
- Get rid of any previous wheels weights that are present on the wheel, since they pose a great challenge when it comes to wheel balancing. Then place the wheel and the tire on the balancer by way of inserting the shaft through the wheel hub and leaving it in place, bearing in mind that the wheel has to be centered on the balancer.
- The next step is to gently spin the wheel in the balancer. During this procedure you will notice that the heaviest part of the wheel is being drawn to the bottom and the lighter part on the top. Give it time to settle in position, and then place a mark on the lightest part of the tire. You could repeat the process just to ensure that you placed the right mark in the right place. To complete this process attach the wheel weights, adhesive side first to the area of the wheel that was marked just below the spot. This will in turn counter the imbalance of the tire.
- Slightly move the wheels to a 3 o’clock position. Let go of the wheel but if it rolls clockwise to place the weighted position on the bottom, then that means you have added too much weight. In the event that it rolls to the top, then that is enough weight added. You may continue adding and subtracting weights until you attain the required balance, which should be at 3 o’clock position.
Finally, to ensure that the wheel stays in position, secure it with duct tape or any other similar adhesives. You will then need to remount the wheel to the car, ensuring that the lug nuts are secure. Dick Cepek tires are a good example of some of the best tires in the market, and the beauty is that they are available in a wide variety of sizes, which is perfect for any tire assembly.
Know Exactly Which Part is Needed
Once you find out there is an issue with the vehicle, it is necessary to either inspect the problem or have a mechanic determine what is needed to repair the car. Auto components usually need to be make and model specific. When shopping used, make sure to have all the information that is needed. If it is possible, bring the old piece when shopping, so there is no confusion as to what the vehicle will require.
Know What the New Purchase Price Would Be
Before shopping, take a few minutes and research the price of those new components if they are purchased new. This way, it will be easier to know whether or not the used is provided at a good deal. Make sure to have a printed copy of the price on hand when looking, just in case it may be necessary to negotiate a better price with the dealer.
Make Sure Returns Are Possible
One of the first questions that needs to be asked before paying for a used component is whether or not it can be returned it if it breaks or quits performing. Many auto salvage centers or a trusted car dealer will offer a 30-day money back or exchange policy. If the retailer does not offer any type of warranty, consider trying other sources that do have a return policy.
Maybe New is Better
Some parts are often better if purchased new. Vital components, like alternators, brake rotors, and others that have a tendency to wear out over time are overall more economical if purchased new. It can be risky buying some items used since it typically cannot be known how long they were used in the previous vehicle before they were sold to someone else. The vehicle may stop working after three months, which means a new component will have to be purchased, so it may have been less expensive to break down and buy it new in the first place. Auto parts that are typically considered safe to purchase used include fuel pumps, brake drums, air conditioner compressors, and CV joints.
A multimeter helps you to test the electrical current throughout your car. The sensors on your car convert the multimeter readings to voltages that the car computer can understand. Using the tool you will be able to check the sensor’s output voltage in order to verify a faulty wiring system. You will also be able to know if your system has a bad part that is creating out-of-spec signals that might be problematic in the future.
The tool helps you to identify a problem in your engine. When the engine has problems, the problem is usually due to fuel, air or spark. The tool covers the air department so that you are able to work through the maze of vacuum lines in order to identify a leak or cracked tube that might be causing problems.
Fuel pressure gauge
The unit helps you to know whether the engine is getting enough or too much fuel. This helps you to eliminate some of the problems that your engine might be having.
OBD code reader
If you own a car you know the panic that comes in when the “Check Engine” light comes on. The first thing that many car owners do is rush to the nearest garage to have the car inspected. With the OBD code reader, you no longer have to panic when the light comes on. All you need to do is connect the tool to your car and you will know the exact problem that your car is having. This saves you money as you don’t have to hire someone to do it for you. You also avoid the guess work game that results in more problems.
Having too much or too little spring tension will negatively affect suspension performance, but in different ways. Too much spring tension can make your suspension feel like it is topping out. This happens because now the shock extends to its maximum length too suddenly, and this may unload your wheels from the road surface. Not enough spring tension can make your suspension bottom out excessively. Knowing these effects can help make the correct adjustments.
Let’s define a few terms to help understand spring pre load effects. The amount of stroke the spring consumes at static ride height from the weight of the vehicle is called “droop.” And the amount of stroke left over at static ride height is called “compression stroke.” The total shock stroke is droop and compression stroke combined.
Total Shock Stroke = Droop + Compression Stroke
It is important to understand that spring tension does not affect the spring rate of a linear spring (most coilover systems come with linear springs). For example, increasing spring pre load WILL NOT increase the firmness of your linear spring. However, this WILL increase the amount of compression stroke you have which increases bottoming resistance.
Springs on most coilover systems have to be pre loaded in order to retain a desirable amount of compression stroke at static ride height. For example; if you have a coilover with a 200 lbs/in spring rate carrying 800 lbs of weight, without any pre set spring pre load, the coilover will compress 4″ just from the static 800 lbs of weight acting on it. If this coilover has a total of 5″ of stroke, this only leaves you with 1″ of compression stroke left over! In this scenario you must pre load the spring to insure you have more than 1″ of compression stroke. There is way too much droop in this scenario.
So we now know that spring tension affects droop. But what is the proper amount of droop to have? This varies depending on how much total stroke your coilovers have, so we treat the desired droop as a ratio of total shock stroke. In order to have an appropriate amount of droop, we recommend setting droop to be 30-40% of the total shock stroke (see equation below). Now you know that you have to adjust the spring tension on your coilovers to yield 30-40% droop!
Desired Droop = Total Shock Stroke x.35
How to set spring pre load:
You must first measure the total shock stroke of your coilover (including the bump stop length). Then measure how much the coilover compresses when the vehicle is at static ride height. Subtract the compression stroke at static ride height from the total shock stroke to find the droop amount. Adjust spring pre load until suspension droop is between 30-40% of total shock stroke.
Droop = Total Shock Stroke – Compression Stroke
Keep in mind that your car’s air filters are your first line of defense against irritating and obstructive airborne contaminants. Dirt, dust, pollen, mold spores, exhaust gases, bacteria, and more are examples of airborne contaminants that have the ability to negatively affect the quality and performance of your engine and vehicle as a whole. And according to Community Car Care, there is a 1 in 5 chance that YOUR car needs an air filter change right now! Many drivers are guilty of overlooking this small but highly-necessary scheduled maintenance.
The long list of airborne contaminants can have a powerful impact on your vehicle’s engine, and in a very negative way. Everything from pistons, cylinders, and cylinder walls, to piston rings and bearings, are just a few areas of a car engine that can begin to lose performance value from clogged or dirty air filters. Over time, neglecting to change them can lead to serious engine malfunctions and breakdowns, which means frustrating, costly repairs.
If you like to have clean, breathable interior air that smells good, you need to change your air filters on a routine basis. Once they start to become clogged, they begin to slowly lose their ability to do their job. So once they are entirely clogged, you can suffer some mild but irritating consequences, such as musty smells, sore throat, coughing, itchy eyes, tightening of the chest, and more. Changing them regularly keeps the interior environment of your car fresh and easy to breath.
Sometimes your car will leak fluid from the transmission. This might be one of the serious problems because if it doesn’t get sorted out you could have a problem shifting gears. Irregular shifting could destroy the gearbox because the incorrect gear could be engaged during the wrong speed. For example, if you are driving fast on a highway and your car changes to the first gear, you could break the teeth because it cannot handle that speed. The first gear is always bigger in diameter because of the force required to do the initial movement.
The transmission can also experience oil leakage. This fluid looks red. It comes from the filler tube base that is located between the engine and transmission, the drain hole, the selector shaft, or the radiator. No oil leakage is good as it means that there is a hole somewhere allowing air to move into the car. Oil is also the source of lubrication inside the engine and keeps the mechanisms cool.
The filter could get clogged at any time. The filter inside the car keeps the oil clean keeping any dust or particles out of the engine. Oil supplies the car with lubrication so that there is no friction. Friction is what causes overheating and worn out parts. If you are experiencing delayed shifting and oil leaking it is likely that the filter has been clogged. This filter also keeps the dust away from the gearbox whilst it shifts. If you experience delayed shifting it could mean that there is something blocking the system from making smooth motions.
Shifting gears incorrectly can be easily felt. It often sounds like the engine is groaning if it has gone up one gear too many. This will lead to a slow pulling motion which will not allow the car to move faster until it regains its speed again.
Automatic cars are tougher to fix when it comes to gearbox problems because these cars don’t have a manual clutch. However, this doesn’t mean that it is impossible but never repair your car on your own if you are not sure what to do. A clutch and brake fitment centre should have the knowledge to fix the problem with ease.
The main objective of car suspension tuning is to place the vehicle in neutral mode. Both the above stated modes can be harmful for the vehicle. In the neutral mode, it is easier to control the vehicle. By using the throttle you can turn anywhere you want. Throttle enhances the flexibility of the car while turning. This makes driving easier, safer and more enjoyable.
It is simpler to control a vehicle, when it is in neutral state. The tires will enjoy greater durability due to less wear and tear. While driving, the laps also become quicker. At times an over-steering car can also produce quick laps. But for this purpose expert driving is required. If the driver is inexperienced or if his reflexes are poor then the vehicle will drift to the wrong side in a vulnerable angle. This can also reduce the driving speed. So if you want to use an over-steering car you also need an experienced driver. A novice driver would not be able to handle the situation.
In case of the under-steering car, there are restrictions in movement due to the holding of front tires on the road. It would not be possible even for a skilled driver to drive the under-steering vehicle smoothly. But people generally prefer to keep their vehicle in under-steer mode for insuring greater stability. But an under-steering vehicle is not fit for long drives. It is difficult for the vehicle to catch higher speeds in this mode during long travel. The driver might also find it difficult to control the vehicle at times during long travel.
Petroleum oil begins to break-down almost immediately. A high quality synthetic, on the other hand, can last for many thousands of miles without any significant reduction in performance or protection characteristics. Synthetics designed from the right combination of basestocks and additives can last indefinitely with the right filtration system.
As alluded to above, the first major difference between petroleum and synthetic oil is heat tolerance. Flash point is a technical specification referenced by most oil manufacturers which is an indicator of heat tolerance.
The lower the flash point of an oil the greater tendency for that oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. This leads to oil thickening and deposit build-up on critical engine components.
So, the higher the flash point the better. 400 degrees F, in my opinion, is the absolute MINIMUM to prevent possible high consumption and oil thickening due to burn-off. Higher would definitely be better.
Today’s engines are expected to put out more power from a smaller size and with less oil than engines of the past. Therefore, the engines run much hotter than they used to. That puts an increased burden on the oil. Synthetics are up to the task. Petroleum oils are better than they used to be, but can still be a little overmatched. Nevertheless, even though synthetics are MUCH less prone to burn-off than are petroleum oils, there can still be a small amount of burn-off during extremely high temperature operation.
Since some motor oil “burn off” will occur whether using synthetic or petroleum oil, it becomes important to discuss the manner in which petroleum and synthetic oils burn off. Because it is a refined product and the refining process can only do so much, petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes (the very smallest and largest of which are removed during the refining process – what is left is a smaller range of molecular sizes, but there is still significant variance in molecular size from one to another). Hence, as a petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off faster and easier than the larger molecules.
Moreover, some of those smaller molecules are actually contaminants that were left behind from the refining process. You see, when crude oil comes out of the ground it is a conglomerate of many different molecule types, a large portion of which are not useful for lubrication purposes at all. The refining process is designed to remove as much of those contaminant molecules as possible, but only so much can be done without raising the cost considerably.
As all of these smaller molecules burn, deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine which, obviously, reduces the efficiency of your engine and can also lead to greater heat build-up in your engine. Anytime heat increases beyond what is normal for an engine, longevity will suffer.
== Need A Heating Blanket for Your Engine?
Obviously, that would be silly, but, in some respects this is exactly what petroleum oils create inside your engine. You see, the larger molecules within your oil do not flow nearly as easily as the smaller molecules do (consider the difference in “pourability” of a heavy weight oil vs a light weight oil). Because of this, the larger molecules tend to be pushed to the “outside” of the oil stream, collecting at the surface of your engine components while the smaller molecules flow down the center of the oil stream between the larger molecules.
Thus, the larger molecules tend to “blanket” the components of your engine, trapping the heat there as opposed to pulling the heat away into the oil stream. Of course, this only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. As smaller molecules within the oil burn off, the larger, heavier petroleum oil molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. This makes the “heating blanket” effect even worse.
In contrast, synthetic oils, because they are not refined or purified from crude oil, but rather are designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Only the molecules that are useful to the purposes of lubrication and cooling are present within the oil, and only the molecule size that is desired for the particular viscosity being manufactured.
Therefore, even if a synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. No oil thickening. No “heating blanket” effect.
Moreover, synthetics contain few, if any, contaminants as compared with petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces. Obviously, this leads to a cleaner burning, more fuel efficient engine.
In addition, because the molecule sizes are so uniform in a synthetic oil and there is no “heating blanket” effect, synthetics do a much better job of “cooling” engine components during operation. A cooler running engine means longer engine life. AND, oil temps will often be 10 to 30 degrees cooler than with petroleum oils because the heat dissipates so much better with a synthetic. Cooler running oil means longer oil life and better protection.
Installing the cold air intake may seem like a big feat to some, but its really quite simple. To start off open your hood and get accustom to your engine bay. You should fine a big black box that connects to your intake manifold. This is your aem air filter. You need to remove this, by unscrewing any screws that hold it in place. Then, you unclamp the tube that connects to your intake manifold.
You should then be able to remove your OEM air intake. Make sure to disconnect any wires that may be connect from your old air intake to the engine. On most sport compact cars, there is a plug that plugs from the OEM air intake to the intake manifold. You will want to remove this plug and pull out the whole air box. There may be additional pieces of the air box in the engine bay. These also need to be removed too.
After the OEM air intake is removed, take your new AEM cold air intake of the box and get acquainted with the pieces. There should be a air filter, intake tubing, some clamps, some hoses, and some screws. Since it’s a cold air intake, you want to install from outward to inward. This means, that since your air intake will be outside your engine bay, you need to install this first.
Grab the cold air intake tube, and run it through the hole that runs into your wheel well. Now grab your AEM air filter and connect it to the tube, so the air filter is in the engine bay. On some cars, you may have to remove the front bumper, or most likely, the mud guard in your wheel well. Screw the clamp down so your AEM air filter is securely connect to the AEM V2 intake tube. Now you can put your bumper or your mud guard back on.
Now moving back to the engine bay, its time to hook the AEM intake tube to the intake manifold. Since, the AEM V2 cold air intakes are designed specifically for each car model, there should be no custom work needed. Grab a clamp and connect the other end of the intake tube to the intake manifold. Your AEM V2 Cold air intake is pretty much installed. Now, you grab the hose that came with the AEM intake and connect one side to the inlet on the intake tube. The other side connects to the intake manifold. There should be an open inlet from the OEM intake, right by where the intake tube connect to the intake manifold.